The following two checks can be made by switching the suspected burner with a known operating burner: A weak ignition system, on the other hand, will produce light blue, almost white sparks. A healthy ignition system will produce crisp blue sparks. You hear clicking but there’s no ignition.įirst thing to do in this case are the following observation checks which do not require any tools, instruments, or taking anything apart. Let’s take ’em one at a time and list the things you need to look at.
When you turn the switch to the “ignite” position, you complete the circuit, through the switch, to the module. You turn on one of the surface switches to fire up a burner. Now, here’s what’s supposed to happen–refer to the wiring diagram show here and sing along. Modules came in all different sizes and configurations, depending on the range.
The output terminals each connect to two burner ignitors so the module shown here is designed to handle four surface burners–the most common configuration. The L terminal is the 120v supply which is supplied to the module through any one of surface switches. The N terminal on the input side must be wired directly to line neutral.
So, my incredulous grasshopper, remove your thumb from your dorsal orifice and come with me now on a journey through gas stove spark ignition systems and how to fix ’em. Did you know that 90% of the spark modules in gas ranges and cooktops that are replaced are perfectly good? A statistic like that tells me that this topic is screaming for a revelation from the master.